With the shorter shocks found on the Street Weapon, it is sometimes difficult to remove the

bottom spring cup in order to change springs. This is especially true if you are using limiters or spacers on the inside and/or outside of the shocks. To make removing the bottom spring cup a little easier, trim the bottom portion of the cup that overlaps the shock end.

There is a small line visible on the overlapping portion of the spring cup. This line is about 1/16" away from the flat surface of the spring cup. Trim the overlapping portion of the cup up to this line. To further aid in the removal of the spring cup, the ribs that center the spring can be trimmed at an angle. This will help the cup pass the bottom of the shock when removing the cup.

It is recommended that all four bottom shock cups be cut. This will enable you to limit the travel on any of the shocks and still allow the spring cup to be removed without changing the position of the top spring collar or removing the top of the shock from the shock tower.

Remember that just because the front wheels on a car turn further doesn’t necessarily mean that the car will have more steering. This is especially true with the Street Weapon. Since touring cars run on paved surfaces, the traction at the front tires is usually very high. I’ve seen many touring cars that have way too much steering throw dialed into them. It’s not uncommon for a car that is dialed-in and running great to only be able to turn a full circle at slow speed in an 8- to 10-foot diameter space. If your inside wheel is flopping back-and-forth while rounding a corner on the track, chances are you’ve got too much steering throw dialed in on your transmitter. Try taking some steering throw out and see what happens. You may be surprised to find that you will actually gain steering on the track.